Being tourists at Waterloo!
The adventure continues! Since we checked in last we’ve been all over the place. There are several updates on the way, so hang on and enjoy the vicarious ride.
After our first stay in Amsterdam we took off to Brussels, where one of Andrew’s Belgian cousins was graduating from high school. This particular high school is a well-funded international school attended by the children of multiple ambassadors and diplomats. It showed. In addition to a staffed entry
gate, tall fences, a large security crew and discreetly lurking bodyguards, a massive computerized light/audio rig had been installed in the gym for the event, with multiple techies dashing around to keep things running smoothly. The reception afterward was fully catered and had four different buffets, each with its own ethnic concept. The Mexican and Asian tables were particularly welcome to us Seattle-to-SF transplants, though in true European form, each exotic buffet began and ended with a giant basket of plain bread.
After a few lovely days spent with Andrew’s family we headed back to Amsterdam for the second leg of our stay. We were better connected this time around and Naomi was able to find a free place to stay for several nights through Couchsurfing.
Her host was Paul, a Dutch Burning Man guy who is really really really into hula hooping and photography. During the stay, he taught Naomi some basic hoop tricks. They also took a evening to go to one of the local circus studios and shoot some pictures of Naomi doing her thing. After an hour or so, this turned into an aerial hooping experimentation session where Naomi tested out her new skills while hanging from the trapeze. A few connections with local aerialists brought Naomi an invitation to do an aerial workshop with some local circus performers, which was wildly successful.
The biggest bonus, however, came through one of the workshop attendees, a Dutch magician named Igor. This prestidigitator knew several of the performers in Circus Roncalli (a big German circus performing in Amsterdam this month) and invited Naomi to the Roncalli lot to meet his performer friends in an attempt to score free tickets. Upon arrival, however, the performers were nowhere to be seen. Resourceful as ever, Naomi and Igor marched up to the ticket office, told the woman at the counter that they were circus performers and asked if they could have free tickets.
It actually worked.
We didn’t just get free tickets, though. We got GOOD free tickets. Front-row box-seat tickets. Velvet-cushioned, smell-the-performers, get-sawdust-up-your-nose tickets. Roncalli is a truly traditional European one-ring circus the likes of which we had never seen live; gilded caravans, equestrian acts, ringmaster in tails and black boots, the whole shebang. The show was totally magical and we left the lot in a gleeful daze, scheming madly about the day we will run off in Andrew’s camper van to join the circus. It will happen. Oh, yes. It will happen.
Circus Roncalli tent at night
While Naomi was hanging with hula hoopers and teaching circus, Andrew was staying at our hostel and pounding the pavement on a series of epic street performing missions. The search for the Perfect Amsterdam Busking Spot led at last to a series of performances at the Bloemenmarket, Amsterdam’s massive outdoor flower emporium. In the face of inclement weather and crabby shopkeepers Andrew and his sparkly hat persevered, banging out several hours of ridiculous tunes for the passers-by. Some of them even defied Dutch stereotypes by tipping!
Andrew took copious notes and observations during these solo days in the hopes of writing a coherent narrative about them, but a through-line never materialized. Instead, here is a selection of observations from Andrew’s notebook to give you a glimpse inside the daily experience of an American busker in Holland:
DAILY LOG: June 8th, 2010
I accidentally bought some salted Dutch licorice at the supermarket and have been trying really hard to like it. Early attempts unsuccessful.
After two weeks of living in a hostel in Amsterdam I have discovered that the Dutch speak better English than many native speakers from the UK. Especially Scottish people.
Ordering fries with ketchup in Holland pegs you instantly as an American.
A common Dutch breakfast for adults and children alike is a piece of buttered bread smothered in chocolate sprinkles. The fact that the sprinkles are called “hagelslag” only makes this more awesome.
The word for “no” in Dutch is “nee,” pronounced “nay.” This makes sound like some conversations are being held in the Middle Ages. “Nay, sire! The queen’s hagelslag did not arrive today.Would Her Grace settle for fries with ketchup?”
The Dutch really like Michael Jackson.
The Dutch really do not like Britney Spears.
While in Amsterdam I have to constantly remind myself that half of every sidewalk is actually a lane for bicycles and scooters. I have nearly died several times because of this.
I just forgot about the bike lane again and just stepped into the middle of another one.
Some walk lights in Amsterdam give you a 60-second countdown before they turn red.
While walking around Amsterdam I saw a wrinkly old woman in a muu muu shuffling down the street with a full head of neon hair extensions.
The tour boats that patrol the canals look like giant crocodile heads at night.
An entertaining feature of the Dutch language is the palatal “chh” sound, which sounds like you’re quickly clearing your throat. When words are drawn out for dramatic emphasis in conversation this sound is sometimes extended for a hilariously long time. Note to self: Learn Dutch and do this.
Conversation overheard in hostel kitchen:
Young American #1: “I can’t wait to get out of the city away from all these damn people.”
Young American #2: “I can’t wait to drink a Busch Light and shoot things.”
Young American #1: “Blow some shit up?”
Young American #2: “Yep.”
Good all-purpose Dutch word: Lekker. It means good, tasty, delicious, awesome, satisfied and several other things.
Other Dutch Words I Like:
Genoodzaakt
Liggen
Stuk
Vervlakking
Twee
Werf
Hoogstwaarschijnlijk
That’s all for now!
